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A cheese I’m exceedingly into right now is Abruzze Jawn. It’s made at the bucolic Cherry Grove Farm, which is not too far from me in Lawrenceville, NJ. I visited earlier this year for a story I wrote for Culture on New Jersey cheeemakers, and I pretty much fell for every wheel they make (I’m looking at you, Trilby!!). I got to meet the cows and cheesemaker Paul Lawler was incredibly generous showing me his caves and his creations. Recently, I’ve been thinking about Abruzze Jawn. (The name is South Philly for “the spicy one.”)
Abruzze Jawn is crafted with a heady mix of peppers that includes ancho, pepperoncini, guajillo, and pimenton (the exact mix is a secret). It “tastes like pepperoni for vegetarians,” Lawler told me. I love how it’s fiery but balanced, bold but nuanced, and irresistibly savory. I wish I had some now for a mid-afternoon snack with some olives and cucumber spears sprinkled with Maldon. It also inspired me to write a new story, coming soon, about flavored cheeses being on-trend.
This stunner, made with the farm’s own grass-fed milk. was dreamed up as an experiment to use up a surplus of that milk during the holiday season of 2014. Abruzze Jawn went on to become an American Cheese Society winner - a serious accolade in the cheese world - just six months later. It’s been a favorite in the decade since. It’s a truly gorgeous, unique cheese.
I’m thinking of myself and my cohort, now in our, er, late 30s ish, and we’ve been doing our thing for a long time. We’re probably stupidly good at it. We can probably do it with one hand and one half of our brain tied behind our back. But I think of how I do my best work when I bring that spirit of experimentation. A little bit of try and see. A little bit of fun.
Also, the work I’m proud of. The work that gives me the momentum to keep going. That stretches some part of my head or heart.
Not every new cheese brings home big medals, (or as my four-year-old Simone calls them, “winning necklaces,”) but who knows? It might lead somewhere even better than your most extravagant dreams. Or to the something that leads to the something that leads to the something…
Like Cherry Gove had just a little extra milk, I have just a little extra time before I have to go get the kids from preschool. In December style, I’m doing a lot of reflection. If there’s anything you’d love for me to write about in 2025 please don’t be shy. I love you for reading this.
I’m open to experimenting over here!
December is a whirlwind. I’m off to Milan and the Aosta Valley next week (lucky me) and then to see our UK family for the holidays. Work is a rush of wrapping up the year and planning for the year ahead. Mom life is nonstop holiday events - I’m going to Simone’s school on Friday to talk about Hanukkah! - teacher gifts, books for the book swap, etc etc etc. But I still put on my coat, hat, scarf and went on a walk by the river today. Here I am, showing up. Dreaming of Abruzze Jawn.
xo,
Hannah
PS I wrote about a very cool fancy oil producer La Tourangelle.
PPS I’m proud of my story for Culture about country ham.
PPPS My cookie swap story for Edible Jersey made the cover!
Here I am beautiful Cherry Grove cheeses on their farm in summertime. Can you spot the Abruzze Jawn?
my envy of your job has no depths, much like my love of cheese